My computer hard drive, recently failed, and a side benefit of transferring files to a new computer (because, hey, you just gotta look at the bright side when your computer starts to make gurgling sounds and awkward beeps), I got to take a look at some of the old photos from construction of our B&B over the past year. Hope you enjoy!

For those who don’t know, my husband oversaw construction. Our wedding anniversary is coming up (almost 10 years!), and looking at the time series of pics made me feel all warm, and appreciative of him.

In a previous post about the coffee cooperative in Santa Fe, Veraguas, I promised a story about a statue, a priest and a kidnapping.  Here we go.  Near the town square in Santa Fe, you’ll see one and only one statue – it is Father Hector Gallego who worked in Veraguas from the late 1960s to 1971.  He is notable, not only for his faith, but that he stood up for something, and worked towards a future that is greater than himself.

Overview of Father Hector Gallego

In the 1970s, a young Catholic priest from Colombia came to Santa Fe when land and farming was controlled by four main families who were also allied with governmental leaders.  He organized the poorer campesinos into cooperatives, suggested a plan for development of Santa Fe to the government, received threats for his work, his house was burned down, and weeks later, he was kidnapped and dragged away one night in full sight of witnesses, and was never seen again.  Investigations pointed to involvement of the police (national guard), as well as a couple of accomplices.  While a trial was held, there is still much mystery and rumor of additional involvement surrounding the case.

Cooperative in Santa Fe, a Legacy

Today, there are a couple of related cooperatives who trace their beginnings back to Father Gallego’s efforts to mobilize and unite the campesinos for a better future.  The coffee cooperative, with its own label, and over 50 small scale farmers is one of them.  His statue stands in the town square near the entrance to one of the cooperatives.

Sources:

http://www.oremosjuntos.com/SantoralLatino/JesusGallegoHerrera.html

http://argentina.indymedia.org/news/2008/06/606626.php

Panama: Report of the Commission of Truth

“Jesus Herrera Héctor Gallego. CV-D-Missing 
 035-01. Santa Fe, Veraguas Province, June 9, 1971.

Record of Hector Gallego 
 victim was 33 years old, a Colombian national. Catholic priest was responsible for the Church of Santa Fe, Veraguas province.

Facts

Father Héctor Gallego was forced by two subjects to be mounted on a jeep with a white top, the night of June 9, 1971, as stated by witnesses Jacinto Peña y Clotilde Toribio de Peña in the summary of the case.

Two men came to the residence of Jacinto Pena Abrego, located in the town of Santa Fe, in the province of Veraguas asking for Father Gallego. The priest woke up and came to the door…. According to (the witness), he could not make out the faces of the people who came, because he was inside the house, while Gallego was talking to these people. But I heard them tell the Father that he should accompany them to headquarters by higher order. “Father refused at first, but then they said something quietly, Father agreed and went into the house to get dressed … asked him (the witness) to be quiet and he (the priest) went with them.  Both witnesses saw the how the priest walking between the two men and heard him cry out.  They went outside to see what was happening, but the men rushed out of the place with him in the jeep.  He was not seen again…Several testimonies of people of Santa Fe have pointed suspicion to the police, and [individuals].

The Truth Commission considered:

a. There is sufficient evidence to conclude that Jesus Hector Gallego Herrera was arrested by the National Police and  disappeared while in the custody of the armed forces.

b. Therefore, it can be concluded that it was committed against the violation of their right to life enshrined in Article 19 of the 1946 Constitution, in Article 1 of the American Declaration of Rights and Duties of Man and in Article 3 Universal Declaration of Human Rights, and also violated the principle of good faith in signing agreements and treaties, Article 4 on the right to life, of the American Convention on Human Rights, signed, but not ratified by the Republic of Panama. “

Last week we had Lauren, from Panama Portal, a website focusing on Panama travel, stop by!   Check out her review of our hotel, and  trip highlights in Santa Fe:

Our hotel: Coffee Mountain Inn:  Highlights about our hotel

The Orchid House in Santa Fe, Panama: Read about the local orchid growers

Wandering the Backroads of Santa Fe, Panama: Local adventures and great views

In Santa Fe, Veraguas and ready for a dip in the river or a float in a tube? Downhill (going there, definitely not going back – if you’ve seen that hill, you know what I’m talking about) from the hotel is one of the prettiest lazy swimming holes, surrounded by tall trees and a nice river.  It is a bit rocky, so I wear my flip flops in the water.

How to get there?

Go downhill from our hotel about 400m until you hit the Bulaba bridge.  Cross it, and on the other side to the right, make your way down to the river.  The swimming hole is downstream about 100m

Be careful and aware

Who would I be without cautionary words.  While the river is calm in this area much of the year, there are times that the water and velocity is high.  Use common sense – if it looks dangerous – don’t do it.

UPDATE: naming of the Charco

Since originally writing this post last week, I’ve learned of two background stories about Charco Piedra del Pato.  See which one you like the best.  The first is from Nathali who says she read the story in a book of legends of the area, the second from her mom, Villa.

1)  From Nathali: The swimming hole is located on the Bulaba River, named for an indian cacique Bulaba.  Bulaba had a beautiful daughter who fell in love with a man from a neighboring tribe. They would meet at night at this pool.  After realizing that his daughter was sneaking out at night to meet with her love interest, Bulaba was not happy and wanted to put a stop to the romance.  He went to see a warlock who turned the boyfriend into a duck (pato).  The daughter went at night to wait for her boyfriend, sitting on the big rock in the middle of the second photo – she sat and sat, he never came.  Thus, the area was named the Pool of Duck Rock (Charco Piedra del Pato)

2) From Villa: There used to be a lady named Sra Inez who lived on the river.  She had many ducks and the ducks used to perch themselves on the rock. Thus, the area was named the Pool of Duck Rock (Charco Piedro del Pato).

Chivas (translated goats) is a term used to refer to small transport vehicles, most often pickup trucks with an area in the back where people sit.  These are often used in rural areas to get between small towns on rough roads.

Transportation is a competitive business

In Santa Fe, there are two internal routes, one goes from Santa Fe-Guabal (though the Chivas are marked with Calovebora), the other makes a circuit of Santa Fe – El Pantano.  There are a limited number of trips permitted on each route, and each driver or owner holds a cupo for the right to drive on that route.  The national government sets the fare-you will not be overcharged on a chiva.  In both cases in Santa Fe, there are several owners who operate on each route.  They work up a schedule for which chiva operates when.  Some drivers are the owners themselves, others are employees of the owners, and still others work out a deal with the owners for commission.  As with any business where owners compete for limited resources, there are rivalries and also alliances between operators.

Did you know: You may occasionally see these chivas chain up.  Chains on tires are used for mud, not snow in Panama.

 

How to take a chiva

1. If you’re near the center of Santa Fe, simply grab one near the central plaza.  If you’re on one of the roads around Santa Fe, hail it.  (How I hail a chiva: Turn around to face the truck. Make eye contact.  The driver may toot his horn, this is asking, hey do you want to get on?  Whether s/he does or not, stick out your arm (you’re saying, why yes I do want a ride))  If you have a stopping place that’s not the end of the route, tell the driver before you get on.  Make sure they understand.
2. Climb in back.  The driver may ask if you want to sit in front.  I’m overly cautious, and as a woman, I prefer to travel with other people in back.  Ladies, Panamanian men tend to be very flirtatious and male drivers often ask a pretty woman (like you obviously) to sit in front with them.  I’ve heard some of the less generous women refer to these seats as the “bus slut” seats.  I think this is very unfair, it’s a woman’s prerogative to look good if she wants to. And flirting can be fun, but just be forewarned that flirting may ensue. Bus slut or not, if you’re lugging around a big backpack, the driver may ask you to put it on top of the vehicle.  Do this.  If it rains, there will be a tarp that goes over it.
3. You can always ask for a stop by banging the outside of the vehicle.  If other people in the back see you doing this, they’ll help you.
4. When you get off, don’t forget to wait for your luggage to be handed down.  Pay the driver.

If it were a paint color, I would call it happy blue.  I know it’s about 80 degrees.  That if you were to walk barefoot on the grass, that it would be slightly wet from a night rain.  The sun is warm but not harsh on the mountains behind.  It is a happy blue.

Rio Narices, Santa Fe National Park – Stories from Cele

Rio Narices is an amazingly clear river that flows down the Pacific side of Santa Fe National Park, joining the Santa Maria River about 2 miles to the north east of Santa Fe, one of the 10 largest rivers in Panama. There is clear, still water, some neat geologic formations, forested slopes, and about 3 miles in, a little palm rancho that ANAM built.

Cele’s hiking recommendations

We wore rubber knee high boots when hiking up the river.  There were some places where we had to cross from bank to bank to continue walking, and in places the water was pretty deep.  Bring food if you want to hike up, I didn’t and was hitting on empty when we got back. The going is slow.  We walked in maybe 3 miles to the ANAM rancho.  The term rancho makes it sound bigger than it is.

Philosophical question for this hike

Indigenous groups have lived in Veraguas for centuries if not millenium, living in small communities.  Santa Fe National Park was finally formed in 2001, and encompasses some  villages.  Up Rio Narices, and over the cordillera central, and going down the river on the other side of the continental divide, there are three communities: numero uno (number one), numero 2 (number 2) and Guazaro, accessible by foot, a total of 12 hours hiking one way.

So, think about it.  You’re living in an isolated community, not much entertainment, except the communities down the way.  I’m sure they get together for festivals, make life interesting.  Do you think the villagers debate which town is number one and which is number 2?  Ah, we are number one because we are closer to the ocean, your town is number two.  No no no, we are number one since we’re closer to Santa Fe, you live in number 2.  How about your psyche.  Would you grow up feeling inferior if you grew up in number 2?

In the foreground you can see evidence of what I term as my husband’s new hobby – renting heavy equipment. Now, if you know Cele, you know that he’s very neat.  We’ll go out for a day on a muddy backroad, and I’ll think – cool- we had a great time the mud on the car- wow, it’s over the rear view mirror -it’s a badge of honor.  He’ll think, great, we had a great time, now it’s time to clean the car…and worse, somehow he manages to talk you into helping out.  Sigh.

He discovered that you can rent time from owners of the road construction equipment.  In front of the hotel, there used to be a green area, but it had little indentations and hills, the free spirit in me thinking- how nice a little character.  But man, those hills didn’t stand a chance once Cele learned about the cuchillo that was in the area.  The upside, we have a nice area for parking…. got motorhome? No problem.

His friend Eliecer is an outreach technician for the coffee cooperatives in the area and helped us (er Cele again) plant 50 different coffee bushes around the inn of different classes, they’re planted around the perimeter, currently about 10 inches high.   Eliecer says that one of the kinds only takes 1-3 years to start producing coffee – how great would that be!

 Santa Fe, Panama – Cerro Tute Exploring

I have watched youtube videos of places to go and things to do, and have been impressed by those of hikers going up Cerro Tute.  Young hikers  out of breath, hiking for hours to see the panaromic views from the Cerro which hovers protectingly at 1061m over Santa Fe, Veraguas with its sister hill Cerro Mariposa, known for its birding.  Unlike Cerro Mariposa, Cerro Tute is   deforested and known for —well rebels like you and me.

Not quite.

But it is known for rebel hideouts, first indian caciques lanced some of their resistance against the Spaniards from the cerro, and more recently in the 1950s a group of Fidel Castro inspired Panamanian university student rebels hid from the pursuing governmental forces in Cerro Tute.  The government eventually lured them down with rumors of gun shipments, or so I hear.  Many were killed, others escaped.

Today the Cerro hugs the edge of Santa Fe National Park.  Country folk live in its hill sides. And, it has great views.

How we got there

Cele and I decided to check it out, but in our 4X4 rather than walking, to see how far we could get.  They’ve been working on the road, and we saw our tax dollars at work with the new tourism authority signs for the cerro.  So we followed them.  We took the red route on the map below – starting point – the inn of course!  We followed the signs south of town to the Cerro.   20 minute drive-up hill with some great views of town.  We didn’t go all the way to the top I don’t even think we  used the 4×4.

Recommendation?

How was it, well it was nice. (6.5/10).  The problem with Santa Fe is that there are so many places with sweeping views.  Was it fun, yeah.  Were there great views,  yup- looking out towards Santiago  But it wasn’t forested, no fantastic rivers, and the drive wasn’t as interesting say as going to Alto Gonzales to the north, or the road to Guabal.  There is an alternate route (blue), which is supposedly rougher.

Recommendation: Go up with a car for a picnic lunch or to watch the sun rise/sun set.