Bermejo Falls, Santa Fe

Bermejo WaterfallOne of my husband’s favorite waterfalls next to Santa Fe is Bermejo Falls, located about 3 miles to the northwest on a 4×4 road.

What are my impressions of Bermejo Falls?

It’s a beautiful area-and definitely worth a day trip.  The falls themselves are located on el bermajito river.  A 60 ft waterfall cascades down to a rocky pool (with very slippery rocks) where you can swim.  Forested cliffs reach up around the falls.  The pool is larger than any of the waterfalls at Alto de Piedra, and the view is more impressive. Guests have seen monkeys at the falls and my husband saw an ocelot one morning.  It is a longer hike to get to the falls, however – through an EXTREMELY muddy trail.  Then the trail meanders through a cow pasture and an orange grove, making it easy to lose it.

Hiking the trail requires mobility – and takes about 45 minutes one way – but what a 45 minutes it is!  Let me first say that Bermejo means red soil.  What type of soil is red?  Clay.  What happens when horses pass over clay soil in a rainforest?  You get a muddy, slippery mess of a trail for hiking!  I was pondering this as my black rubber boots sank down in the mud past my ankles, sometimes up to my calves as I desperately was looking for firm ground my first time hiking the trail.  Some months it is drier, but be prepared for mud!

How to get to Bermejo Falls

We offer a horseback riding tour to the falls, $95 for two people and $25 for additional people – people love it.  But don’t feel obligated if horseback riding isn’t for you – I want people to have the experience that’s right for them, and that’s not for everyone.  You can also drive to the trailhead and hike, if you have a 4×4.  Budget in about 20 minutes in a 4×4 to drive the 3 miles, and 2 hours to hike there and back with some time at the falls.

Others hike from our inn, but they usually come back wiped out.  We recommend taking a taxi ($5 – $6 for the first person + $ for each additional person) to the falls if you don’t have a 4×4.  That way you’re not too tired to enjoy the waterfall when you get there.  You can catch a taxi in the town square.

To get to the trailhead, continue downhill from our inn, cross the vehicle bridge and take the first left up the steep hill.   Continue making lefts when the road splits until you hit a small chapel.  When the road splits, take the right fork and continue on the 4×4 road until you see a sign for Bermejo Waterfalls on the right hand side.  Park your car and the hike should take about 45 minutes to get to the falls.  Be careful of the slippery rocks near the falls.

This is not an official tourist trail.  It is not maintained – it’s a foot path that farmers use to access their lands, and you hike through private land to get to the falls.

Bittersweet blessings and beginnings

RafaelSo, I haven’t updated this blog for a while.  I’ve had life going on.  Our daughter, Mae, was born last year prematurely, and she passed away after a month in intensive care. She was doing so well and we are heartbroken.

Cele and I were stunned to find out that I was pregnant during this time.

Our son, Rafael Emre (Rafael meaning God Heals and Emre meaning Brother), was born in February…after 6 months on bed rest.  The birth of our son is bittersweet. It doesn’t make things better, you can not replace one child with another.  We miss our daughter so much and love our son.  I never quite know what to say when people ask if Rafael is our first.  He is not.  He is a blessing, as was our daughter.

Rafael and I returned to Panama in March after going to the states for his birth.  As for blessings, I am blessed to have this business with my husband right now, where we have the flexibility to work and take care of our child at the same time, where our son can grow up in a world perfect for a little explorer – with rivers for swimming, bugs for capturing, and horses for riding.

Orchids of the Wierd

orchid I swear it looks like a crawdad! Cele and Eric came across this funky looking orchid in El Pantano, Santa Fe, a couple miles from our inn. I think the species is Coryantes maculata, an uncommon orchid known for liking acidic soil. Because of this, it often grows on top of ant hills and is pollinated by only one genus of bees. Talk about being picky!

Exploring Santa Fe, Panama Trails, Part 2

Second Waterfall, Alto de Piedra

Second Fall, Alto de Piedra
Second Fall, Alto de Piedra

There are a series of three waterfalls at Alto de Piedra.  The second is my favorite, and the hardest and most dangerous to get to.  The waterfall is made up of four mini waterfalls, cascading about 80-100ft to the forest below.  Beautiful!

How to get there:

The safest way to get to the waterfalls is to take the trail to the first waterfall, described in the previous post.  About 100ft before you reach the first waterfall, there is a footpath from the main trail, leading upwards.  Take this trail, and follow for about 8 minutes and you will reach the falls.  I just was on this trail today. Be very careful, it is very muddy, narrow, not maintained and with very steep drop offs. There are areas where you will need to grab on to roots to balance yourself, and you should wear boots.  If you have poor balance or mobility issues, this trail is not for you.

TRAIL LENGTH FROM TRAILHEAD: Approx 800m; Plan 1 hr for a round trip visit to the second waterfall.

Exploring Santa Fe, Panama Trails, Alto de Piedra Waterfalls

Alto de Piedra Waterfalls, the First Waterfall

Alto de Piedra, Santa Fe.  First Waterfall
Alto de Piedra, Santa Fe. First Waterfall

Alto de Piedra waterfalls are very pretty, and a perfect taste of the region.

Alto de Piedra is an outlying neighborhood of Santa Fe.  The trailhead is about 3 miles and 1000ft above Santa Fe town center, bordering the National Park.  There are a series of three waterfalls.

Trail description

The trail to the first waterfall descends about 400 ft in 1/2 km through rainforest.  The trail was paved in places at one time, though it is always muddy, steep, and not well maintained.  It is the easiest of the three trails, but still slippery and muddy -I wear my black rubber boots to hike it.  You will see typical rainforest trees – stilt palms, guarumo, strangler figs.  After descending 400 ft, you come to waterfall, perhaps 20ft in height, as steep forested slopes with large ferns surround the pool in 270 degrees. Very pretty. In the morning, we’ve seen hummingbirds play in the falls.

How to Get There

altodepiedramap
Waterfall Trailhead Location in Alto de Piedra

The trailhead is located off of the paved road that goes towards Calovebora.  On the other side of the uncompleted center, see picture below.  (please note, this is NOT the same information center as the one that my husband helped complete) the trail starts out, wandering through an orange grove before starting its descent.

Trailhead locations for Waterfall 1
House at Trailhead for Waterfalls, Waterfall 1 trail is located on the other side of the fence in back of the white house.

In November, we’re going to start a bike and hike  rental option, with bike rental and  trailhead drop off  for those people who would prefer to rent a bike, be dropped off at the trailhead, do the short hike, and coast down the 1000ft elevation change and three miles back to town.

What to Bring

  • Water.  Though the hike is short, uphill in heat is not my favorite. I bring a bottle of water with me.
  • Long-sleeve shirt.  I wear a long sleeve shirt for the bugs, and put on insect repellant before I go.
  •  Sturdy shoes.
  • Be aware that there is no cell reception in the Alto de Piedra area.