Innside Coffee Mountain Inn

I have a side track from Santa Fe today – but it is Panama related.  I just got off the phone with my friend, Nina, who was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Panama at the same time as me and later did her doctoral work at Tulane (and also married a Panamanian, like me).  She is a Panamanian anthropology nerd -and directed a short documentary on – Diablo Rojos, or red devils.  The film was nominated for all kinds of awards and looks at people, buses, art and innercity life through the viewpoints of several interviews.  What’s really neat about Nina is that she has this way of getting to know people and finding wonder in things that many people may not.

The Diablos Rojo  buses ran Panama City routes before being outlawed in 2011 (one reason was safety) and were replaced by the government run metrobus system.  The Diablos Rojos were privately owned, and were notable as the owners would  paint the exterior of the buses (old US school buses) with all kinds of colors, sayings, pictures of women and Jesus.  The buses would run the downtown, barrio routes. Drivers would play reggae or hiphop, and people would be crammed into the buses.  A pavo (turkey), or assistant to the driver, would hang out the front of the bus, shouting destinations and taking money.  Since most people do not drive a car to work in the Capital, many Panamanians  would travel back and forth from work using a Diablo Rojo. People loved the buses, people hated them, but you were never bored on a Diablo Rojo!

Today people buy a pre-paid metrobus card and ride on quiet, air conditioned buses.  For all the convenience, you can’t help but feel like you’re missing something essential of the soul of the city.

The drive from Panama City, Panama to Santa Fe de Veraguas takes 4 – 4.5 hours. (Get Directions to Santa Fe, Veraguas) To break up the trip, my husband and I often make quick stops to eat, rest, stretch (of course, we have different favorites). Here is a list of our recommendations.

Our favorite stops on the road to Santa Fe (From Panama City)

1. Quesos Chela and Altos de Campana

Her: I love Quesos Chela in Capira.  They are a family owned business, making cheese and breads in small batches.  They have an entrance right off the highway, as you are leaving Capira (off to the right), about an hour or so out the Panama City.  They are well known for a Panamanian drink – Chicheme.  A non-alcoholic blended drink made of corn, milk, and sugar served with ice.  The drink is different than what you’re used to drinking-but it’s good.  But if you have fussy eaters in your group (including yourself ;)), you might want to pick up one of their many more familiar for the tongue “chichas”, homemade fruit drinks, as well.  You can also pick up fresh bread, cheese, and empanadas.

I like to combine this with a picnic at Altos de Campana National Park.  The entrance is another 10 minutes or so down the road, off to the right, as you are heading through the pass.  A 15-20 minute drive up the windy paved road will afford some really great views of the mountains to the marsh areas near Bejuco, and there is both a trail head and an overlook on the road that make good picnic spots.  It is quiet, not much traffic and quite nice.

Him: The food is good, but it is too light for me.

 2. Santa Clara, Las Veraneras

Both:  We like stopping here.

Las Veraneras is a hotel/restaurant locally owned about 2 hours from Panama City.  It’s right on the beach in Santa Clara (left turn from the interamerican, when you see Xoco’s restaurant) follow the main road until you come to the beach, then make a right, continue for about 150m. The restaurant is great for  lunch at reasonable prices and location -unbeatable.  They have a lovely, large open air restaurant with a palm roof on the sand beach.  While  we wait for the food to be ready, we have gone out for walks on the beach, and have also just sat and talked.  Tip: If you are in a hurry, ask what they have that can be ready in 10 minutes.  If they have a daily special, they’ll let you know.

3. La Pintada

Him:  La Pintada is about 10-15 minutes from Penonome  It’s a small rural Panamanian town with charm.  It’s about 2.5 hours from Panama City.

Her:  It’s a nice town, and if you’re not in a hurry, a good side trip.

4. Santiago

Both:  Before you come up to Santa Fe, you can stop to get supplies in Santiago, the regional capital. It’s about 3-3.5 hours from Panama City.  I don’t really like driving around in cities in places I don’t know well (countryside – I love).  So we mention a few stops directly off the interamerican highway.

• Banks. There are several banks with ATMs on the interamerican (one right next to the Do It Center (to your left near turn off to Santa Fe), one inside the Machetazo).  There are no ATMs in Santa Fe.
• Gas.  There is a gas station after you have turned onto the road to Santa Fe and are leaving Santiago (to the left).  Fill up before you come up.  There are no stations in town.
• Groceries, snacks, sunscreen.  As you come into Santiago, there is a Machetazo off to your right, in the Galleria shopping center.  It’s a good place to buy whatever you need.

5. El Mirador & Iglesia de San Francisco

On the trip up to Santa Fe, you will pass through San Francisco.  It has a historical church dating back to the 1500s, and after you leave town, you will pass by El Mirador, a restaurant & cheese factory.  They have great views and cheese, great prices, and just OK food.